Calm risotto

1.  If any clams are open, even slightly, don't use them. Keep the carpet-shells and cherrystones separate. Put each into a bowl of cold water, with a handful of salt to recreate their natural environment. This will encourage them to release any sand trapped inside the shells. Brush the shells well, wash three times in running water, then, to be sure no dead clams are being held closed by sand, drop each one into a bowl and throw away any that open.

2.  To make the stock, heat 3 tablespoons of the extra virgin olive oil in a large, heavy—bottomed pan. Take 2 of the garlic cloves out of the oil in which it has been steeping (but reserve the oil) and add to the pan with half the sliced chile. Cook for a minute or so, without allowing them to color, then put in the cherrystone clams and cover with a lid. Shake the pan and, after a minute, add cup of the wine. Continue to cook over a high heat, letting the alcohol evaporate. After about 2 to 3 minutes, the clams will have opened. Discard any that haven°t opened. Reserve the rest and chop them.

3.  Add the tomato paste and cover with 10 cups water (to covor the clams). Bring to a boil, than turn down the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes.

4.  While the stock is cooking, heat the rest of the oil in another pan, then add the rest of the garlic (again, reserving the oil) and chile. Cook for a minute or so, without allowing them to color, then add the carpet—shell clams and cover with a lid. Shake the pan and, after a minute, add 1/3 cup of the wine. Continue to cook over a high heat for about a minute, letting the alcohol evaporate. As soon as the clams open, take the pan oil, the heat (the carpet—shells will cook quicker than the cherrystones, as they are smaller). Take out the clams carefully with a slotted spoon (discard any that don't open), and set aside, reserving the cooking liquid.

5.  Take most of the carpet—shell clams out of their shells, keeping back a few in their shells fer garnish, and mix with the chopped cherrystone clams.

6.  When the cherrystone clam stock is cooked, add the stock from cooking the carpet—shells and Strain through a fine sieve into at clean pan.

7.  Now you are ready to make the risotto. Have the stock at a bare simmer next to where you are going to make the risotto.

8.  Melt the butter in a heavy—bottomed an and add the onion. Cook gently until the onion is softened but not colored (about 5 minutes).

9.  Add the rice and stir around to coat in the butter and "toast" the grains. Make sure all the grains are warm before adding the rest of the wine. Let the wine evaporate completely until the onions and rice are dry.

10.  Start to add tho stock, a ladleful or two at a time, stirring and scraping tho rice in the pan as you do so. Also add tho tomato passata along with tho first ladleful of stock. When each addition of stock has almost evaporated, add the next ladleful.

11.  Continue cooking the risotto for about 15 to 17 minutes, adding stock continuously, but slowly toward the end, so that the rice doesn't become too wet and soupy, otherwise when you add the butter at the end, it will become sloppy. The risotto is ready when the grains are soft but still al dente.

12.  Turn clown the heat, add the shelled clams, 2 tablespoons of the garlic oil and the lemon juice. Season to taste.

13.  For the mantecatura, with a wooden spoon, vigorously beat in the cold butter cubes, making sure you shake the pan energetically at the same time as you beat.

14.  Just before serving, if the risotto is too firm, beat in at little more hot stock — the risotts should be all'onda (it should move like waves). Add the chopped parsley and serve gernished with the clams in their shells.