1

In a pot, cook the leeks in the butter over low to medium heat, stirring regularly, for about 10 minutes, or until they soften but do not brown. Add the fish bones and heads, bouquet garni, and cider and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and work the mixture through a large—mesh strainer or a food mill fitted with the coarse disk into a clean pot. If using the egg yolks, don't use an aluminum pot, or the egg yolks will turn gray.

2

Stir the cream to taste into the strained broth. If using the egg yolks, in a bowl, whisk them for 1 minute, or until they are slightly pale, and then whisk in about one-third of the broth.

3

Pour this mixture back into the rest of the broth, and put the pot over medium heat. Stir with a wooden spoon for about 3 minutes, or until the soup is silky and smooth and the tiny

4

Ripples turn into smooth waves. Don’t let it boil.

5

Stir in all the herbs and the fish and season with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to low—again, don’t let the mixture boil—and stir for about 3 minutes, or until the fish is cooked

6

And the flavor of the herbs is infused.