1

Cut out a core in the base of the cabbage to make removing the leaves easier. Set a vegetable steamer over boiling water and place the cabbage on top of it. Cover the pan and steam for 5 minutes, then check to see if you can gently pull off the first leaf. If you can’t, continue steaming until you can. Remove as many leaves as you can easily, then continue steaming until you can remove more leaves. You’ll need a dozen leaves in all. When done, take the cabbage out of the pot to use for something else. Or chop, then steam it and serve it with the cabbage bundles. Stack the leaves with their prettiest sides facing down. Remove any hard cores if they make it hard to fold the leaves.

2

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a wide nonstick skillet. When hot, add the filling mixture and fry it over medium-high heat, pressing down, turning it occasionally, so that it browns in places. Then place a mound in the center of each leaf and fold to enclose the filling. (lf the leaves are very big, use more filling and make fewer of them. If they’re so small that they’re hard to stuff, overlap two leaves to make one big one. The string will hold them together.) Tie both lengthwise and crosswise with kitchen string to make a little parcel.

3

While you’re making the parcels, heat another tablespoon oil in a wide skillet and add the onions, tomato paste, and allspice. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until softened and starting to color, about I5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and sugar along with the wine and 1 cup water. Bring to a simmer.

4

While the sauce is cooking, dip the cabbage parcels in flour, brush off the excess, then brown them lightly in the remaining oil as needed.

5

Taste the sauce for salt and pepper and sharpen it slightly with a few drops of vinegar. Add more allspice if you think it needs it. Arrange the parcels over the sauce, cover the pan, and cook for 25 minutes. Serve with a few tablespoons of the sauce.