To make the ragout, slice the leaves off the chard stems, wash well, then cut into ribbons about an inch wide. Trim the stems so that you have even planks, then cut them into strips about 3/8 inch wide and 3 inches long. Bring 2 to 3 cups water to a boil, add a few pinches of salt, and simmer the chard stems until nearly tender, about 5 minutes. Lay the leaves over the top and cook them until tender, about 5 minutes. Set aside.